Sticky resin? Bubbles everywhere? Resin still soft after 24 hours?
First of all, breathe. Your resin has not personally attacked you, even if it currently looks like it has chosen chaos.
Epoxy resin problems are extremely common, especially when you are starting out. Most of the time, the issue comes from one of a few things: wrong measuring, poor mixing, cold temperature, humidity, moisture, too much pigment, pouring too thick, or using the wrong resin for the job.
This Elto Bert Studio troubleshooting guide is written for complete beginners and hobbyists who want a clear answer without needing a chemistry degree. We will explain what went wrong, how serious it is, how to fix it if possible, and how to stop it from happening again.
We work with resin in real Malta conditions, so humidity, heat, dust, wood movement, and workshop reality all matter. Resin is beautiful, but it is also fussy. Think of it like baking a cake: if the recipe says two eggs and you add half an egg because you were feeling creative, the cake will not politely forgive you. Resin is very similar. It likes accuracy.
Best way to use this guide: start with the symptom checker below, find the resin problem that matches your project, then jump directly to the correct section.
Quick Resin Symptom Checker
Use this table first. Find the problem that looks most like yours, then click the link to jump directly to the right section. This saves you scrolling through the whole article while your resin sits there looking suspicious.
| Problem | Most likely cause | Can it be fixed? | Go to section |
|---|---|---|---|
| Resin is sticky all over | Wrong ratio, poor mixing, cold temperature | Sometimes | Sticky resin fix |
| Resin is not curing or still liquid | Incorrect ratio, missing hardener, poor mixing | Rarely if fully liquid | Not curing fix |
| Lots of bubbles | Fast mixing, cold resin, trapped air | Usually | Bubble fix |
| Bubbles coming from wood | Wood outgassing | Usually | Wood bubble fix |
| Cloudy, waxy or greasy surface | Humidity, moisture, amine blush | Usually | Cloudy resin fix |
| Resin is soft or bendy | Not fully cured, cold room, wrong resin type | Sometimes | Soft resin fix |
| Resin cracked, smoked or got too hot | Exotherm, pour too thick, wrong resin | Sometimes | Overheating fix |
| Fish eyes or resin separating | Oil, silicone, dust, wax, contamination | Usually | Fish eye fix |
| Pigments sinking, floating or clumping | Too much pigment or wrong pigment type | Sometimes | Pigment fix |
| Resin turning yellow | UV exposure, heat, ageing | Mostly prevention | Yellowing prevention |
First Important Point: Resin Cures, It Does Not Dry
Before we fix anything, this is the most important thing to understand: epoxy resin does not dry like paint.
Paint dries when water or solvent evaporates. Epoxy resin cures through a chemical reaction between Part A and Part B. When the resin and hardener are measured correctly, mixed properly, and used in the right conditions, they react together and become hard.
If the ratio is wrong, the reaction cannot finish properly. If the mixing is poor, some areas cure while other areas stay sticky. If the room is cold, the reaction slows down. If humidity gets involved, the surface can become cloudy, waxy or greasy.
Resin troubleshooting always starts with the basics: ratio, mixing, temperature, humidity, surface preparation, and product choice.
If you are still learning how to measure and mix correctly, read this guide next: How to Mix Epoxy Resin: A Beginner’s Guide.
1. Why Is My Resin Sticky?
What it looks like
Sticky resin can appear in different ways. Sometimes the whole surface feels tacky, like tape. Sometimes only a few patches stay sticky while the rest cures properly. In worse cases, the resin feels wet, oily, or gooey even after the recommended cure time.
This is one of the most common beginner resin problems, and it is also one of the most frustrating. You wait patiently, come back the next day, touch the surface, and suddenly your fingerprint is part of the artwork forever.
Why it happens
The most common causes are:
- Incorrect resin-to-hardener ratio
- Not mixing long enough
- Not scraping the sides and bottom of the cup
- Cold room temperature
- Using the wrong resin for the project
- Adding too much pigment or alcohol ink
Sticky patches usually mean the resin was not mixed evenly. A very common mistake is scraping the last drops from the mixing cup onto the project. Those last drops may contain unmixed resin from the side or bottom of the cup.
Beginner tip: it feels wasteful to leave resin behind, but sometimes the cheapest resin is the resin you do not use. Scraping every last drop can turn a clean project into a sticky crime scene.
Can it be fixed?
Sometimes. If the resin is only slightly tacky, it may simply need more time and better temperature. If it is wet, gooey, oily, or liquid, it usually needs to be removed.
How to fix it now
- If it is only slightly tacky, move the piece to a warm, dry room and give it more time.
- If only small patches are sticky, scrape away the bad areas carefully.
- Once the resin is firm enough, sand the surface lightly to create grip.
- Clean away all dust before recoating.
- Apply a fresh, correctly measured and properly mixed coat.
Important: do not pour fresh resin over wet or liquid uncured resin and hope for the best. Fresh resin will not magically fix a bad layer underneath. It may trap the problem and make the repair harder.
How to prevent it next time
- Read the ratio on the product before mixing.
- Measure accurately by weight or volume, depending on the product instructions.
- Mix slowly and thoroughly.
- Scrape the sides and bottom while mixing.
- Transfer into a second clean cup and mix again if possible.
- Do not scrape unmixed residue from the cup onto your project.
- Keep the room warm and dry during curing.
2. Why Is My Resin Not Curing?
What it looks like
Resin that is not curing may stay completely liquid, very soft, rubbery, oily, or jelly-like. It may look shiny but never harden. Sometimes it cures around the edges but remains wet in the middle.
Why it happens
Epoxy resin cures because Part A and Part B react together. If the correct amount of each part is not present, the reaction cannot complete.
The main causes are:
- Wrong mixing ratio
- Accidentally using too little hardener
- Forgetting Part B completely
- Mixing by eye instead of measuring
- Using a product ratio incorrectly, such as treating a 2:1 resin like a 1:1 resin
- Working in a room that is too cold
Do not add extra hardener to make resin cure faster. It does not work that way. Resin is not coffee, and hardener is not an espresso shot. Too much hardener can stop the resin from curing properly.
Can it be fixed?
If the resin is only slow because the room is cold, it may still cure with warmth and time. If the ratio was wrong or one part was missing, it usually cannot be saved as it is.
How to fix it now
- Check the product’s normal curing time first.
- If it is still within the curing window, wait longer.
- Move the piece to a warmer, dry room if possible.
- If the resin is fully liquid or gooey after the full cure time, scrape and remove it.
- Clean the surface properly before repouring.
- Recoat only once the surface is clean, dry, and prepared.
Wear gloves when removing uncured resin. Uncured resin should not be handled with bare skin.
How to prevent it next time
- Always check whether the resin is 1:1, 2:1, or another ratio.
- Use a proper scale or measuring cup.
- Do not estimate by eye.
- Mix for the recommended time.
- Keep your bottles closed when not in use.
- Work in a stable temperature.
If you are a beginner, start with a suitable product from our Resin Kits collection. The right resin makes troubleshooting much easier.
3. Why Does My Resin Have Bubbles?
What it looks like
Bubbles can appear as large trapped air pockets, small surface bubbles, tiny micro-bubbles, or a cloudy foam-like look inside the resin. Sometimes bubbles rise and pop by themselves. Other times they stay trapped and become part of the final piece.
Why it happens
Bubbles are normal in resin. The goal is not to panic when you see them. The goal is to reduce them before they become permanent.
Common causes include:
- Mixing too quickly
- Whipping air into the resin
- Cold resin being too thick
- Pouring too aggressively
- Using porous materials
- Adding powders or pigments too quickly
- Not allowing bubbles time to rise
Cold resin is thicker, and thick resin traps air more easily. Warm resin flows better and allows bubbles to rise. Warm does not mean hot. We are not making resin soup.
Can it be fixed?
Surface bubbles can usually be fixed while the resin is still wet. Deep bubbles inside thick pours are harder to remove after pouring, so prevention is more important.
How to fix it now
- Let the resin sit for a few minutes after mixing so bubbles can rise.
- Use gentle heat to help surface bubbles pop.
- Do not hold a heat gun too close or too long in one spot.
- For surface bubbles, use Epoxy Anti Bubble Correction Spray.
The anti-bubble spray is useful for surface bubbles on resin art, coatings, and smaller projects. It helps correct surface bubbles, but it is not a magic vacuum for deep trapped bubbles inside a thick pour.
How to prevent it next time
- Bring resin and hardener to room temperature before mixing.
- Mix slowly and steadily.
- Use a flat stirring motion instead of whipping.
- Pour slowly.
- Seal porous materials before the main pour.
- Avoid overworking the resin once it is poured.
4. Why Are Bubbles Coming From Wood?
What it looks like
You pour resin onto wood, everything looks fine, and then bubbles start appearing from the same spots again and again. You pop them, they return. You pop them again, and they return like they pay rent there.
Why it happens
Wood is porous. It contains tiny holes, cracks, and air pockets. When resin covers the surface, air can escape from the wood and rise into the resin. This is called outgassing.
Outgassing is especially common when:
- The wood is not sealed first
- The wood is dusty or damp
- The temperature rises during curing
- The resin is poured directly into cracks or knots
- The wood has not been dried properly
Can it be fixed?
Yes, if you catch it while the resin is still wet. Once the resin cures with bubbles inside, the repair becomes more difficult.
How to fix it now
- Use gentle heat to bring bubbles to the surface.
- Pop surface bubbles carefully.
- If bubbles keep appearing from the same area, the wood was probably not sealed enough.
- For future layers, sand and apply a thin seal coat before the main pour.
How to prevent it next time
- Use dry wood.
- Remove dust from cracks, edges, and grain.
- Apply a thin seal coat of resin first.
- Let the seal coat cure or become ready according to your method.
- Then do the main pour.
Elto Bert tip: a seal coat blocks the tiny openings in the wood. Without it, the wood keeps breathing into your resin like it has urgent news.
5. Why Is My Resin Cloudy, Waxy or Greasy?
What it looks like
The resin may look cloudy, milky, dull, greasy, or waxy on the surface. Sometimes it feels like there is a film sitting on top. Instead of a clean glossy finish, the surface looks tired and confused.
Why it happens
One possible cause is moisture or humidity. In epoxy work, a common surface issue is called amine blush. It can appear as a waxy, cloudy, or greasy layer on the cured resin surface.
This is especially important in Malta, where humidity is not exactly shy. Some days the air feels like it came straight out of a wet towel.
Cloudy or waxy resin can be caused by:
- High humidity
- Moisture on the surface
- Damp wood or materials
- Cold curing conditions
- Condensation
- Contaminated tools or surface
Can it be fixed?
Usually, yes. The important thing is to clean the surface correctly before sanding or recoating.
How to fix it now
- Wash the surface with warm water and mild soap.
- Rinse and dry completely.
- Then sand lightly if needed.
- Remove all sanding dust.
- Apply a fresh coat only when the surface is clean and dry.
Important order: clean first, sand second. Do not sand a waxy surface first, because sanding can push the waxy residue into the scratches.
How to prevent it next time
- Avoid pouring on very humid days when possible.
- Keep resin, tools, and surfaces dry.
- Do not pour onto damp wood.
- Avoid condensation on the workpiece.
- Keep the curing area warm and stable.
6. Why Is My Resin Soft or Bendy?
What it looks like
The resin has cured enough to hold its shape, but it still feels soft, flexible, rubbery, or bendy. Thin pieces may bend more than expected. Mould pieces may feel soft even after demoulding.
Why it happens
Soft resin can happen because:
- It has not fully cured yet
- The room was too cold
- The ratio was slightly wrong
- The piece is very thin
- The wrong resin type was used
- Too much pigment or additive was added
Different resins are designed for different jobs. A resin for coating artwork is not always the same as a resin for moulds, deep pours, doming, or table work.
Can it be fixed?
Sometimes. If the resin is still curing slowly, warmth and more time can help. If the ratio was wrong or the resin type was unsuitable, it may stay soft.
How to fix it now
- Check the full cure time, not only the touch-dry time.
- Move the piece to a warm, dry room.
- Give it more time before deciding it has failed.
- If it remains soft after full cure, the ratio or product choice may be the issue.
How to prevent it next time
- Use the correct resin for the project.
- Do not demould too early.
- Follow the recommended cure time.
- Keep the temperature stable.
- Do not overload the resin with pigment.
For beginner projects like coasters, trays, mould work, and small art pieces, start with a suitable resin from our resin kits. If you are unsure which one fits your project, contact us before ordering.
7. Why Did My Resin Crack, Smoke or Get Too Hot?
What it looks like
The resin gets very hot, cures too quickly, cracks, smokes, turns yellow, melts a plastic cup, or forms strange waves and lines. This is a more serious resin problem and should be treated carefully.
Why it happens
Epoxy resin naturally produces heat while curing. This is called an exothermic reaction. A little warmth is normal. Too much heat is a problem.
Overheating can happen when:
- You mix too much resin at once
- The resin stays in the mixing cup too long
- You pour thicker than the resin allows
- You use fast-curing resin for a deep pour
- The room is already very warm
- You add too much external heat
Resin in a cup heats faster than resin spread out on a surface. The heat is trapped in one mass. This is why resin can suddenly become hot very quickly in the cup.
Can it be fixed?
Sometimes, depending on the damage. Cracks, yellowing, or overheated areas may need sanding, filling, or complete removal.
How to fix it now
- If resin is smoking or extremely hot, keep away from it and allow it to cool safely.
- Do not touch hot resin with bare hands.
- After curing, inspect the damage.
- Sand out minor cracks or surface marks if possible.
- For major damage, the affected resin may need to be removed.
How to prevent it next time
- Respect the maximum pour depth.
- Use deep-pour resin for thick castings.
- Do not mix more than you can use within the working time.
- Pour soon after mixing.
- Do not overheat the resin with a torch or heat gun.
- Do not use a fast coating resin for a thick river pour.
For river tables, thick moulds, and large castings, choosing the correct resin is not optional. It is the difference between a controlled cure and a resin volcano.
8. Why Is My Resin Separating or Making Fish Eyes?
What it looks like
Fish eyes look like small craters, circles, or empty spots where the resin pulls away from the surface. The resin refuses to sit properly in certain areas, even though you poured it evenly.
Why it happens
Fish eyes usually mean contamination. Resin needs a clean surface to grip. If something is sitting on the surface, resin may pull away.
Common causes include:
- Oil
- Silicone
- Wax
- Grease
- Dust
- Moisture
- Fingerprints
- Residue from cleaning products
Even touching the surface with bare hands can leave oils behind. Resin notices. Resin is petty like that.
Can it be fixed?
Usually, yes, but the surface needs to be cleaned and prepared properly before recoating.
How to fix it now
- Let the resin cure as much as possible.
- Sand the affected area.
- Clean the surface carefully.
- Remove all dust.
- Apply a fresh thin coat of properly mixed resin.
How to prevent it next time
- Clean surfaces before pouring.
- Avoid silicone sprays near your resin area.
- Wear gloves when handling prepared surfaces.
- Keep dust away while resin cures.
- Make sure the surface is dry.
9. Why Are My Pigments Sinking, Floating or Clumping?
What it looks like
Pigment problems can look like colour sinking to the bottom, powder clumps, uneven colour, floating metallic particles, cloudy resin, or resin that cures badly after adding colour.
Why it happens
Pigments are beautiful, but too much pigment can affect how resin behaves. Resin needs the correct balance to cure properly. If you overload it, the pigment can interfere with the cure or change the movement of the resin.
Common causes include:
- Adding too much pigment
- Using pigments not suitable for resin
- Adding powders too quickly
- Not mixing pigment properly
- Using heavy pigments in very fluid resin
- Adding too much alcohol ink
Can it be fixed?
Sometimes. If the resin has cured, colour issues may be part of the final piece. If the surface is uneven, it may be possible to sand and add another layer.
How to fix it now
- If the resin is still wet, gently adjust the pigment with a stick.
- Do not overmix late in the working time.
- If cured with defects, sand and add a fresh layer if suitable.
- If the cure failed because of too much pigment, remove uncured resin and start again.
How to prevent it next time
- Add pigment slowly.
- Use resin-compatible pigments.
- Mix pigment into a small amount of resin first if needed.
- Do not overload the resin with colour.
- Test new pigments on a small project first.
For resin-friendly colours and effects, browse our Colours & Effects collection.
10. Why Did My Resin Turn Yellow?
What it looks like
Clear resin may slowly turn yellow or amber. This is more noticeable in clear pieces, white pieces, pale pigments, and projects placed in strong light.
Why it happens
Yellowing is usually caused by UV exposure, heat, ageing, or using resin with lower UV resistance. All resin can change over time, but good-quality UV-stable resin helps slow the process.
Yellowing can be made worse by:
- Direct sunlight
- Heat exposure
- Overheating with a torch
- Storing resin bottles badly
- Using the wrong resin for a clear project
Can it be fixed?
Mostly, yellowing is a prevention issue. Once resin has yellowed deeply, it is difficult to make it perfectly clear again.
How to fix it now
- If yellowing is only on the surface, sanding and recoating may help slightly.
- If the entire piece has yellowed, replacement may be the only real fix.
- For future pieces, choose better UV-resistant resin and avoid direct sunlight.
How to prevent it next time
- Use resin with good UV stability.
- Store resin bottles away from sunlight.
- Keep finished pieces away from strong direct sun when possible.
- Do not overheat the resin surface.
- Use suitable pigments for projects exposed to light.
Beginner Resin Rescue Kit: What You Should Keep Nearby
If you work with resin often, keep a small troubleshooting kit ready. You do not need a professional laboratory. Just the basics that help you measure, mix, clean, protect, and fix small problems before they become big problems.
Useful tools to keep near your resin area
- Digital scale
- Mixing cups
- Stirring sticks
- Gloves
- Sandpaper
- Clean cloths
- Dust cover
- Heat gun
- Notebook for ratios, temperature, and cure time
The product we currently stock online specifically for surface bubble correction is the Epoxy Anti Bubble Correction Spray. It is useful when surface bubbles appear after pouring, especially on resin art, coatings, and smaller pieces.
The notebook may sound boring, but it is very helpful. Write down the resin used, the ratio, room temperature, humidity if you know it, pigment amount, and curing time. If something goes wrong, those notes help you find the reason. Resin troubleshooting without notes is just detective work with sticky fingers.
Best Resin Tips to Avoid Problems Next Time
If you remember nothing else from this article, remember this checklist.
- Read the product instructions before opening the bottles.
- Check the correct ratio.
- Measure accurately.
- Mix slowly but thoroughly.
- Scrape the sides and bottom of the cup.
- Use a second cup if possible.
- Keep the room warm and dry.
- Avoid very humid conditions where possible.
- Seal porous materials like wood before the main pour.
- Use the right resin for the right project.
- Do not pour thicker than recommended.
- Do not overload resin with pigment.
- Protect the piece from dust while curing.
- Do not rush demoulding or handling.
Most resin problems are not random. They usually leave clues. When you learn to read those clues, resin becomes much less intimidating.
Which Resin Should Beginners Start With?
If you are new to resin, do not begin with the most complicated project. A giant river table may look amazing online, but it is not the best first date with epoxy.
Start with smaller controlled projects such as:
- Coasters
- Small trays
- Silicone mould pieces
- Decorative items
- Small art panels
These projects help you learn measuring, mixing, bubbles, pigment behaviour, working time, and curing without wasting too much material.
Beginner-friendly product direction
For beginners, explore our Resin Kits collection. For colour effects, pigments, pastes, and inks, browse our Colours & Effects collection.
If you are unsure which resin fits your project, contact Elto Bert Studio before buying. Tell us what you want to make, the size, the thickness, and whether you are using wood, moulds, or coating. It is much easier to choose the correct resin before the pour than to repair a failed one after.
Common Beginner Questions
Can I pour new resin over sticky resin?
Only if the sticky area is slightly tacky and not wet, oily, or liquid. If the resin is gooey or uncured, remove the bad material first. Pouring fresh resin over liquid uncured resin usually traps the problem underneath.
Can I add more hardener to sticky resin?
No. Once the resin is already poured, adding hardener on top will not fix the ratio inside the layer. It can make the surface worse.
Why is my resin still sticky after 24 hours?
It may need more time, especially if the room is cold. But if it remains sticky, soft, wet, or oily after the full cure time, the likely causes are wrong ratio, poor mixing, or unsuitable conditions.
Why does my resin have tiny bubbles?
Tiny bubbles usually come from fast mixing, cold resin, or trapped air from porous materials. Mix slowly, warm the bottles gently, let the resin rest before pouring, and use gentle heat or anti-bubble spray for surface bubbles.
Can humidity affect epoxy resin?
Yes. High humidity can affect the surface and may contribute to cloudy, waxy, greasy, or dull finishes. This is especially relevant in Malta, where humidity can be high.
Can I use a hairdryer to remove bubbles?
A hairdryer can move too much air and may blow dust onto the project. A heat gun is usually more controlled, but it must still be used carefully and not too close to the resin.
Why did my resin crack?
Cracking is often caused by too much heat during curing. This can happen when resin is poured too thick, mixed in too large a quantity, left too long in the cup, or when the wrong resin type is used.
Why did my resin separate from the surface?
The surface may have been contaminated with oil, silicone, dust, wax, moisture, or fingerprints. Clean and prepare the surface properly before pouring.
Is sticky resin dangerous?
Uncured resin should be handled carefully. Wear gloves, avoid skin contact, and work in a ventilated area. Once fully cured, resin is much safer to handle, but uncured resin deserves respect.
Final Advice: Resin Is Fussy, But Learnable
Every resin artist has had at least one sticky, bubbly, questionable project. Anyone who says otherwise is either very lucky or hiding the evidence.
The important thing is to understand what went wrong. Most resin problems are preventable once you control the basics: ratio, mixing, temperature, humidity, surface preparation, resin choice, pigment amount, and pour depth.
At Elto Bert Studio, we do not just sell resin. We use resin ourselves for clocks, tables, crosses, trays, art pieces, and custom work. So when we talk about bubbles, sticky patches, cloudy surfaces, humidity, and curing problems, we are speaking from real resin work and real Malta conditions.
If you are starting out, browse our resin kits and colours and effects. For surface bubbles, you can also use our Epoxy Anti Bubble Correction Spray.
Need help choosing the right resin?
Contact Elto Bert Studio and tell us what you want to make. We will help you choose the right product before your project turns into a sticky science experiment.